Happy Camper: Ice Graves and Bucket Heads

"We do not see nature with our eyes, but with our understandings and our hearts" 

 -William Hazlett

Surviving in the Antarctic wilderness is difficult. It's so hard, we have to go through (at minimum) three different courses/orientations about how to not die and how to recognize when your friends are dying. These videos/lectures all but say, "If you die, it's your own fault." 

Lucky for me, I work in the Galley and other indoor areas where I don't have to worry about dying constantly. 

Well in Antarctica there is a special little course out there that teaches individuals about how to survive, should you get stranded or some other insane situation that isn't actually that uncommon on this continent. In this 30 hour course, you'll learn things like:

1. How to set up an emergency shelter with the use of ice blocks.
2. How to build an emergency ice trench, in which to sleep.
3. How to set up a Scott Tent (tents so durable the big bad wolf couldn't blow them over).
4. How to make water from snow (science).
5. Judging how bad your friend's hypothermia is and how to treat it.
6. And finally, how to find the bathroom with a bucket on your head.

Guess what kids! Your good friend Tom gets to try his hand at camping in your favorite icy dessert: Antarctica! But that's not all! On this adventure we get another visit from Morgan Seag! Hurray!

                      *          *          *

After Winfly ended we were thrown into the baptismal fires of Main Body with nowhere to keep us safe. I don't know if you remember but we had around 300 people for Winfly and now we were bumping up towards 950 over the course of three days. 

Tears were shed. 

One night, we closed down the galley as usual and the following morning we were outnumbered by 5 newly arrived trainees per one of us, which only meant we were going to look at an insane training week (or two). I did not have to train anyone up to this point and my first assignment of the day was to train three people at the same time while others took other new Stewards and did the same. I remember looking over and seeing Morgan with 7 people wandering around the dining room looking all kinds of frazzled. 

That poor woman.

Welp, somehow we survived! I also don't know who had the say in this, but someone thought it would be great if Morgan and I were rewarded for our efforts (despite there being about 8 others who worked just as hard as we did during training, but whateves). This was one of those, "Don't brag or really tell anyone about this." Kind of things.

Photo stolen from the internet without permission. Sorry Fernando.

I really didn't know what I was in for and the trip was far better than I could have ever imagined. We met in the Science Support Center (SSC for short, duh) for a quick discussion on what we were doing and where we were going then sent back to our rooms because no one brought appropriate gear. Upon our return we piled into a passenger delta but while my back was turned, the driver invited all of my friends to ride in the front and left me in the back. Normally this wouldn't be an issue but the crowd was of a different generation and were all very excited. Which, again, is normally alright but this particular group was unbelievably annoying in this case. Ugh. But the ride was only a tiresome 45 minutes until we were free (thanks J-Rod). 

Upon liberation we were then instructed to pile our gear onto long red sleds (siglin sleds) so we can drag them down to where the course would begin. 

In regard to gear vs. people: 
Each person needed X amount of gear and here is a summary of what we had to haul.

1. Bag (per person) with issued parka, wind-pants, bunny boots, fleece jacket, fleece pants, hat, inner glove layer, outer glove layer (leather), neck gaiter, balaclava, extra socks, camera,  and water. Average weight: 30 lbs
2. Sleep kit (per person) with 2 layers of foam, -20 degree sleeping bag, fleece sleeping bag inner layer, small pillow, and pee bottle. Average weight: 18 lbs
3. Mountain tent (per 2 people). Average weight: 17 lbs
4. Scott tent (2 total). Average weight: 46 lbs each
5. Kitchen bag with 2 pots for water, 12 travel coffee cups, 12 spoons, 2 whisper lite stoves, 4 24oz containers of fuel, 2 wooden cutting boards, 20 freeze dried meals, and 15lbs of snacks and drinks. Weight of bag: 42 lbs (roughly).
6. Bag full of ice axes, handsaws, shovels, and bamboo flags. Weight of bag: 23 lbs

If I can still math, that's a total of 839 lbs for the 12 of us. Lucky for us, our instructors had two snow machines to haul the sleds full of gear, we just schlepped our personal bags.

So you and your friends are newly marooned in Antarctica and you're getting cold. First thing's first, build a wall out of ice! This involves getting a regular ol' saw and sawing out three sides in the ice (which is a couple hundred feet thick in this specific area) and pop out the block with a shovel. This will give you perfect, little ice blocks that are great for stacking and constructing.

When you throw 12 people at a project they've never done before, results can look questionable.

Once we finished our first project, we were able to divide into groups and build a beautiful camp in which to live (for a night). One group made a kitchen which needed another ice wall with sides and platforms to cook upon. Another group set up the two Scott tents which are about 15 feet tall and have enormous anchors. And the last group set up the normal mountain tents (always good practice). I have no idea how long this process took but once we were done, Morgan and I were able to work on our special project.

BOOM! Not only did we make ice trenches but we made them next to each other so we could carve out a window on the inside to pass snacks and to say goodnight.

So, an ice trench is a "last ditch effort (heh)" of survival out in the field. Every person needs to have a survival bag with them when they are so far away from a camp or McMurdo and when the winds are too rough and you need to spend multiple hours before rescue, you can dig into the ice and rest there! It is also a good idea to put flags at the head and feet of your ice tomb so no one gingerly walks over/into your sleeping module while searching for your lifeless corpse.

It's crazy, I know but it's so cool. 

Digging an ice grave is exciting when you actually get to sleep in it. The only issue is that when you get ready for bed every move you make knocks snow into your sleeping bag until you are secured and zipped up. It is also very unsettling to move ice blocks over your only means of escape (and air if you're claustrophobic). I got the honor of closing Morgan into her icy tomb just before closing my own.

At some point, one of the trainers called dinner time and we got to experience what freeze dried food tastes like when it expired in 1978 (not even joking). We were told to bring something for ourselves if we want something extra but who would pass up on such ancient cuisine? I had Teriyaki Turkey...

Dinner was pretty much the end of it all and we were sent off to bed. I thought it would be a pretty simple night of sleeping outdoors but the weather had different plans for us. 

Do you remember the different Condition ratings? Here's a refresher:

• Condition 3: All is good in the world. Run and Play.
• Condition 2: Visibility is bad, wind is bad, get inside.
• Condition 1: Oh god, oh god, we're all gonna die.

After saying goodnight and drifting off into a wonderful outdoor sleep I realized that I had to make pee-pees. So I got myself ready and aimed to make a break for the outhouse nearby. But when I moved the ice blocks from the top of my icy bedroom I noticed something; it was looking a lot like a Condition not 3 out there. I could no longer see the flag at the foot of my cave and the wind had produced a strong snow drift around the blocks that were used to seal me in. This was one of those, "No thanks, bye." Moments and I retreated back into bed and learned how hard, yet beneficial it is to use a pee bottle in cold conditions. Oh yes, beneficial. Normal body temp is 99.5 degrees F and so when you capture human liquid in a bottle it is great to put at the foot of your sleeping bag to keep you warm. It feels great, just make sure that lid is tight!

After a few rounds of "Sleeping in the screaming wind while contemplating the possibility of actually being trapped" we woke to a morning of not crazy winds but crazy flat white which is something to witness. When visibility is flat it is hard to gauge how far anything is. The scenery looks like you're staring into a white wall. I could see a footprint in the snow a few feet in front of me but once I started walking towards it I found out that it was at least 15 paces away.

After a quick breakfast, we needed to break things down to leave no trace, as the saying goes, which is so fun. After pulling our things out of the icy trenches, we used some karate chops, boot stomps, and shovel stabs to fill our homes. We broke down our ice block walls in similar manners with the inclusion of throwing ice blocks every which-a-way. 

We then retreated to a nearby warming hut for a little classroom talk and the legendary bucket head challenge! 

This is to simulate what it would be like to be in a dreaded Condition 1 where visibility is zero (which actually happens) where you can't see the hand in front of your face and the wind is so strong you can't hear anything. The simulation: Someone is at the outhouse and the weather turned. Retrieve your compatriot with a bucket on your head! We had the use of a rope and 5 teammates. We chose to tie a person off every 10 feet and make a straight line for the bathroom aiming slightly to the right so we could sweep to the left if necessary. I volunteered to lead the pack. I don't know the last time you've had a bucket on your head but it sure is disorientating. We took about half an hour to walk 40-50 feet but we found the outhouse and rescued our imaginary friend!

We finished our class and made our way back to McMurdo as a big group of sleepy babies, back from our first camping trip away from the backyard. Once back in station, it was back to business as usual for a while but with fond memories and new skills. Happy Camper was one of the most memorable moments in my Antarctic career.

Castle Rock: A Rock That Looks Like A Castle But...Like...Better

"Never fear quarrels, but seek hazardous adventures."
    -Alexandre Dumas, The Three Musketeers 

Anyone who knows what it feels like to put hard hours into a location will tell you that they don't want to hang out where they work. Well in Antarctica, work, home, and social gathering points are generally the same place (especially if you work in the Galley). The only way to solve this problem is to "get out of town" which is a limited device but one worth the while. 

Hazards of the Antarctic Wilderness:
Antarctica is constantly trying to kill its inhabitants, that's sort of why no one really lives there (also no one is allowed to). That and the fact that if we were to adjust the land to suit our needs, we would destroy it quickly (but let's not get into talk about the Treaty). 
There are many things items that are in play when it comes to Antarctica's homicidal desires. The ozone layer above the continent is nearly gone making the air very dry and the rays of the sun more harmful than in other areas of the world. 
There is a lot of wind convergence across the continent making the weather difficult to predict and sporadic. 
The place is covered in snow, making it extremely cold (I know, duh, right?)but it also makes surfaces slippery, the snow can suck the heat out of your body, and there are crevasses EVERYWHERE (giant cracks in the ice that go down hundreds of feet/meters).
With all of that said you can guess that hiking and getting away from station is very hard and pretty dangerous. There are a few hikes available to the general public and the one that gets you the furthest away is known as Castle Rock Loop. Castle Rock is 7 miles round trip or 6 miles if you go out to the rock and come back (very popular option). There is a flagged route and two "Apples" which are round, red shelters that have blankets, food, reading material, and a book to write a quick blurb about your hike. 
Being that this hike will take a few hours there are certain procedures that must be adhered to before departing.
1. The hike must be cleared to be hiked by the firehouse (which is easy to find out).
2. You must bring at least one friend, no solo hikes out there.
3. Each party must have at least one radio to communicate with the firehouse
4. You must check out with the firehouse, giving them how many people are going, when you are leaving and coming back, and who is leading the trip.

Once everything is squared away you can pack and head out on the hike! People bring a lot of things that makes it seem like a multi-day hike but it's only like 4 hours. You want to dress in layers due to the changing weather, bring plenty of water and food, hand and toe warmers, eye protection, gloves, neck gaiters, hats, extra socks, sturdy boots, and a camera.

Unreliable Friends Can Make For Memorable Nights
After a few grueling nights of closing down the Galley and getting drunk immediately afterwards we desired to alter our schedule for our general health. Being that I was restricted to working as a PM Galley slave I had a lot of time to talk to Morgan Seag, the Galley's captain and fearless leader. This girl is accomplished in many aspects of life and still answered the call to captain a ship full of dirty dishes and a group of not-so-willing, soggy individuals. After a few conversations we decided to try and put together a group of people to run out to Castle Rock to brighten moods and experience the Antarctic wilderness. We alerted the troops during a stretch break and gave times with details of equipment needed for our multi-hour outdoor excursion. Once we were done with work, Morgan and I ran to our rooms and began packing. I realized that I had no idea what to pack for and started doubting everything I put on and decided to just bring it all. Once somewhat packed and ready to leave I ran over to Morgan's room and the news began of people dropping out. Her roommate is a lovely being known as Alicia Sutherland and though she is extremely social and a hell of a singer she was the first to abandon us. After a short discussion about gear we left for our meet spot of the hand washing station in the main building. The two of us were late and thought there would be a group waiting on us and we could leave immediately but after waiting for 15 minutes we decided that it would be best to just go without any of the lazy unappreciative sacks of Stewards who failed to show up (only joking, you guys are alright). 

Okay, now it's Morgan and myself with entirely too much gear trying to hustle our way up to the trail that will lead us to Castle Rock. Cool, right? Well mostly. I had no idea which direction the trail began and was a little bummed to see that it was up the only steep road in McMurdo Station. But you know, sometimes you gotta keep it cool and be like, "I'm new here, this person's cool, don't be a bitch." So after about 15 excruciating minutes of climbing up a 45 degree angle we reached the trail head. 

Hurrayyyy. Already sweaty and tired we were able to begin our hike. Keep in mind that we were on the cusp of summer so we were experiencing multi-hour sunsets and darkness for a short time. The horizon ahead of us was dark and full of stars but the scenery behind us was a miraculous view of a mountain range with a strip of light beaming across it. We stopped every few minutes to peer behind us and stood in awe of the scene. Seeing McMurdo Station from a distance put our lives back into perspective. Our little plot of land was a pin prick in the canvas of this continent and we were microbacteria on it's skin. There was plenty to talk about but we kept walking in silent contemplation, reflecting on what brought us here. The first apple shelter is about a mile from the trail and we took a moment to explore the insides. The shelter is a simple, red dome with a pile of stuff inside of it. Simple as that. We found the journal log inside and started reading other people's entries while thinking of our own. I can't remember what I wrote but I can guarantee it was unremarkable or just bad. 


The hut offered us shelter from the slight wind outside so we got ourselves to an appropriate temperature and headed back on the trail. After a while Morgan became very concerned with a cloud up above, saying it looks like an aurora. I looked at it and was fully convinced that it was a cloud and disregarded (I was under the impression the time had passed for auroras). Luckily, Morgan was very insistent and made us stop to fully investigate her suspicions. There was a long, wispy cloud that sat just above our heads that seemed to stretch for miles and after staring intently for a few minutes we saw the colors shine through and wrap around in a way that could only be an aurora. Not only was this my first aurora but I was now it the small group of people who have actually seen the southern lights. Of course they dissipated after a while and we were back on our way, gushing about how cool it was. But after a half hour or so the lights came back but this time it looked like a spotlight was shining from Castle Rock itself. No words were exchanged for a moment but we both were halted, mid-step, arms our as if we were going to protect one another from something bearing down on us. The only sound that could be heard was us gasping over and over again with words trying to be whoas and wows but coming out as elongated vowels. Once again, the light dissipated and we continued, now almost screaming about what had just happened. 

By now we were just about to the second apple shelter and stopped in for a quick refuel since the rock itself was within spitting range, looking all kinds of glorious. Later in the season there is a cleared and roped route that leads to the top of the rock but we were satisfied with wandering around the base, marvelling at the world before us. The last leg of the journey is at a slight incline that lets you see more of Antarctica than you could ever hope for. At our backs stood an enormous precipice looming above us while a wide horizon peppered with mountains on fire at one end by the sun, peaking from just below sight.

After a victory dance and a few cheesy, staged photos we began our return to station. The walk back had our typical bouts of silence but with a new energy. We were bouncing around on the inside with everything we had just seen and how alive we were feeling. McMurdo Station laid ahead of us the entire walk back but it didn't bring us any negative emotions about how hard we have been working and how much would be asked of us in the next coming weeks. We only spoke in excited tones about how cool it was that we were there and how we couldn't wait for the next adventure, living in the afterglow of our current endeavor.

Antarctica wasn't done with us just yet. On our way back Morgan asked for us to hold still for a few moments and not make a peep. It didn't take long to understand what she was trying to experience. The wind had completely settled and we were far enough away from anything that there was zero sound. The term "deafening silence" began to make more and more sense. As we stood there our ears began to ring; at first, very faintly but with every second it began to grow to a point where I had to make some noise to keep from going deaf. We repeated this a few times to make sure we weren't just crazy. Hearing nothing was one of the most interesting things to happen to me in my lifetime (thus far). 

Continuing, we looked to our left and saw another amazing site, nacreous clouds. We first couldn't tell where the snow ended and the sky began but then we saw that the clouds were rippling low across the sky, looking like someone was actively causing brush strokes in cream colored paint with accents of pink and green. I've been a big fan of clouds for a while now but I never knew they could dance with so much color and beauty. 

Just before we made the walk down Antarctica's steepest road, we took one last photo of how happy we were. 

Angry hikers, 2012.