Friday, December 16, 2016

Happy Camper: Ice Graves and Bucket Heads

"We do not see nature with our eyes, but with our understandings and our hearts" 
 -William Hazlett
Surviving in the Antarctic wilderness is difficult. It's so hard, we have to go through (at minimum) three different courses/orientations about how to not die and how to recognize when your friends are dying. These videos/lectures all but say, "If you die, it's your own fault." 

Lucky for me, I work in the Galley and other indoor areas where I don't have to worry about dying constantly. 


Well in Antarctica there is a special little course out there that teaches individuals about how to survive, should you get stranded or some other insane situation that isn't actually that uncommon on this continent. In this 30 hour course, you'll learn things like:

  1. How to set up an emergency shelter with the use of ice blocks.
  2. How to build an emergency ice trench, in which to sleep.
  3. How to set up a Scott Tent (tents so durable the big bad wolf couldn't blow them over).
  4. How to make water from snow (science).
  5. Judging how bad your friend's hypothermia is and how to treat it.
  6. And finally, how to find the bathroom with a bucket on your head.
Guess what kids! Your good friend Tom gets to try his hand at camping in your favorite icy dessert: Antarctica! But that's not all! On this adventure we get another visit from Morgan Seag! Hurray!

                      *          *          *

After Winfly ended we were thrown into the baptismal fires of Main Body with nowhere to keep us safe. I don't know if you remember but we had around 300 people for Winfly and now we were bumping up towards 950 over the course of three days. 

Tears were shed. 

One night, we closed down the galley as usual and the following morning we were outnumbered by 5 newly arrived trainees per one of us, which only meant we were going to look at an insane training week (or two). I did not have to train anyone up to this point and my first assignment of the day was to train three people at the same time while others took other new Stewards and did the same. I remember looking over and seeing Morgan with 7 people wandering around the dining room looking all kinds of frazzled. 

That poor woman.

Welp, somehow we survived! I also don't know who had the say in this, but someone thought it would be great if Morgan and I were rewarded for our efforts (despite there being about 8 others who worked just as hard as we did during training, but whateves). This was one of those, "Don't brag or really tell anyone about this." Kind of things.


Photo stolen from the internet without permission. Sorry Fernando.
I really didn't know what I was in for and the trip was far better than I could have ever imagined. We met in the Science Support Center (SSC for short, duh) for a quick discussion on what we were doing and where we were going then sent back to our rooms because no one brought appropriate gear. Upon our return we piled into a passenger delta but while my back was turned, the driver invited all of my friends to ride in the front and left me in the back. Normally this wouldn't be an issue but the crowd was of a different generation and were all very excited. Which, again, is normally alright but this particular group was unbelievably annoying in this case. Ugh. But the ride was only a tiresome 45 minutes until we were free (thanks J-Rod). 

Upon liberation we were then instructed to pile our gear onto long red sleds (siglin sleds) so we can drag them down to where the course would begin. 

In regard to gear vs. people: 
Each person needed X amount of gear and here is a summary of what we had to haul.

  1. Bag (per person) with issued parka, wind-pants, bunny boots, fleece jacket, fleece pants, hat, inner glove layer, outer glove layer (leather), neck gaiter, balaclava, extra socks, camera,  and water. Average weight: 30 lbs
  2. Sleep kit (per person) with 2 layers of foam, -20 degree sleeping bag, fleece sleeping bag inner layer, small pillow, and pee bottle. Average weight: 18 lbs
  3. Mountain tent (per 2 people). Average weight: 17 lbs
  4. Scott tent (2 total). Average weight: 46 lbs each
  5. Kitchen bag with 2 pots for water, 12 travel coffee cups, 12 spoons, 2 whisper lite stoves, 4 24oz containers of fuel, 2 wooden cutting boards, 20 freeze dried meals, and 15lbs of snacks and drinks. Weight of bag: 42 lbs (roughly).
  6. Bag full of ice axes, handsaws, shovels, and bamboo flags. Weight of bag: 23 lbs
If I can still math, that's a total of 839 lbs for the 12 of us. Lucky for us, our instructors had two snow machines to haul the sleds full of gear, we just schlepped our personal bags.

So you and your friends are newly marooned in Antarctica and you're getting cold. First thing's first, build a wall out of ice! This involves getting a regular ol' saw and sawing out three sides in the ice (which is a couple hundred feet thick in this specific area) and pop out the block with a shovel. This will give you perfect, little ice blocks that are great for stacking and constructing.
When you throw 12 people at a project they've never done before, results can look questionable.
Once we finished our first project, we were able to divide into groups and build a beautiful camp in which to live (for a night). One group made a kitchen which needed another ice wall with sides and platforms to cook upon. Another group set up the two Scott tents which are about 15 feet tall and have enormous anchors. And the last group set up the normal mountain tents (always good practice). I have no idea how long this process took but once we were done, Morgan and I were able to work on our special project.

BOOM! Not only did we make ice trenches but we made them next to each other so we could carve out a window on the inside to pass snacks and to say goodnight.

So, an ice trench is a "last ditch effort (heh)" of survival out in the field. Every person needs to have a survival bag with them when they are so far away from a camp or McMurdo and when the winds are too rough and you need to spend multiple hours before rescue, you can dig into the ice and rest there! It is also a good idea to put flags at the head and feet of your ice tomb so no one gingerly walks over/into your sleeping module while searching for your lifeless corpse.

It's crazy, I know but it's so cool. 

Digging an ice grave is exciting when you actually get to sleep in it. The only issue is that when you get ready for bed every move you make knocks snow into your sleeping bag until you are secured and zipped up. It is also very unsettling to move ice blocks over your only means of escape (and air if you're claustrophobic). I got the honor of closing Morgan into her icy tomb just before closing my own.

At some point, one of the trainers called dinner time and we got to experience what freeze dried food tastes like when it expired in 1978 (not even joking). We were told to bring something for ourselves if we want something extra but who would pass up on such ancient cuisine? I had Teriyaki Turkey...

Dinner was pretty much the end of it all and we were sent off to bed. I thought it would be a pretty simple night of sleeping outdoors but the weather had different plans for us. 

Do you remember the different Condition ratings? Here's a refresher:

  • Condition 3: All is good in the world. Run and Play.
  • Condition 2: Visibility is bad, wind is bad, get inside.
  • Condition 1: Oh god, oh god, we're all gonna die.
After saying goodnight and drifting off into a wonderful outdoor sleep I realized that I had to make pee-pees. So I got myself ready and aimed to make a break for the outhouse nearby. But when I moved the ice blocks from the top of my icy bedroom I noticed something; it was looking a lot like a Condition not 3 out there. I could no longer see the flag at the foot of my cave and the wind had produced a strong snow drift around the blocks that were used to seal me in. This was one of those, "No thanks, bye." Moments and I retreated back into bed and learned how hard, yet beneficial it is to use a pee bottle in cold conditions. Oh yes, beneficial. Normal body temp is 99.5 degrees F and so when you capture human liquid in a bottle it is great to put at the foot of your sleeping bag to keep you warm. It feels great, just make sure that lid is tight!

After a few rounds of "Sleeping in the screaming wind while contemplating the possibility of actually being trapped" we woke to a morning of not crazy winds but crazy flat white which is something to witness. When visibility is flat it is hard to gauge how far anything is. The scenery looks like you're staring into a white wall. I could see a footprint in the snow a few feet in front of me but once I started walking towards it I found out that it was at least 15 paces away.

After a quick breakfast, we needed to break things down to leave no trace, as the saying goes, which is so fun. After pulling our things out of the icy trenches, we used some karate chops, boot stomps, and shovel stabs to fill our homes. We broke down our ice block walls in similar manners with the inclusion of throwing ice blocks every which-a-way. 

We then retreated to a nearby warming hut for a little classroom talk and the legendary bucket head challenge! 

This is to simulate what it would be like to be in a dreaded Condition 1 where visibility is zero (which actually happens) where you can't see the hand in front of your face and the wind is so strong you can't hear anything. The simulation: Someone is at the outhouse and the weather turned. Retrieve your compatriot with a bucket on your head! We had the use of a rope and 5 teammates. We chose to tie a person off every 10 feet and make a straight line for the bathroom aiming slightly to the right so we could sweep to the left if necessary. I volunteered to lead the pack. I don't know the last time you've had a bucket on your head but it sure is disorientating. We took about half an hour to walk 40-50 feet but we found the outhouse and rescued our imaginary friend!

We finished our class and made our way back to McMurdo as a big group of sleepy babies, back from our first camping trip away from the backyard. Once back in station, it was back to business as usual for a while but with fond memories and new skills. Happy Camper was one of the most memorable moments in my Antarctic career.